Over the years I’ve gotten a number of inquiries that sound something like this: “I was reading a forum about Rugers locking the trigger when shooting fast. What’s with that – any truth?”
This is a question that comes up often enough that I’ve actually written a boilerplate answer that I paste into my email replies. I think it’s worth discussing here.
First, the wording of the question (and the complaint that engenders the question) implies that the gun is somehow at fault. It’s not! It’s an operator issue, pure and simple: the shooter is not letting the trigger reset fully before commencing another cycle. If the trigger is reset all the way forward, the problem doesn’t occur. It matters not how quickly the gun is fired as long as the trigger is properly reset.
If the trigger isn’t reset on a S&W revolver, the common sequence is the cylinder rotating to the next live round but the hammer not being activated. This is called a ‘short stroke’ and results in a skipped round. The trigger then has to be reset and pulled again to get another round under the hammer and fire. If the same thing is done on a Ruger, the trigger locks in the forward position, not advancing the cylinder or firing a round, until – again! – the trigger is allowed to reset.
The net result with both systems is the same: if the shooter wants another shot, he/she must let the trigger reset fully before commencing another pull. The only difference is that the S&W will skip a round and the Ruger won’t. The cause and remedy are the same with both guns; only the symptoms are different.
(It’s possible Ruger designed their action specifically to avoid the S&W ‘short stroke’ issue. Perhaps Ed Harris will read this and chime in as to the design philosophy behind the Ruger’s lockwork.)
That having been said, there is a difference between the way that Ruger approaches the trigger reset sequence and the way that S&W does it, and it does have a small influence on shooter behavior. As the Ruger resets, at one point it transmits a unique and very discernible “click” through the trigger. At the point the ‘click’ happens, the cylinder bolt – the little thing at the bottom of the frame that pops up to lock the cylinder – hasn’t yet reset, which means the cylinder is still locked and the trigger isn’t yet be able to unlock it. The hand, which rotates the cylinder and is attached to the trigger, is trying to rotate something that’s held solid. It’s a little like trying to turn a doorknob that’s locked, and that’s what the shooter feels through the trigger.
Again, it doesn’t matter how fast the trigger is operated as long as the operator allows the trigger to reset completely. This seems to be a particular issue with shooters who have a lot of experience with autoloading pistols, where it’s commonly taught to feel for a click denoting trigger reset and immediately commence another trigger press. It works with autoloaders, but not with revolvers. (This is yet another example of autopistol techniques being inappropriately applied to revolver shooting, hence my saying: a revolver IS NOT a low-capacity autoloader!)
When I do action work on the Ruger guns I do some things to reduce that false reset indication. It’s not possible to make it go away completely, but I can reduce it enough (and change the initiation point just a bit) that most shooters no longer notice.
Still, it’s worth remembering that the Ruger ‘problem’ is only a problem if the shooter doesn’t understand the idea of trigger reset. S&W has a problem too, but for some reason it’s not a bone of contention to the same extent as Ruger’s behavior. Both are a consequence of inadequately experienced shooters, not any design fault with the guns.
-=[ Grant ]=-