I work on the "J", "K", "L", and "N" frame guns. In particular, I'm very proud of my "J" frame action work - it turns these popular but hard-to-shoot models into wonderful guns! Parts are not included unless noted. Shipping is extra (isn’t it always?) The Super Action Job Some folks do various “levels” of action work. I do only one - The Best! Through experience, I’ve learned what's necessary make the entire action work well; unless all aspects of the action are “right”, you won't get the shootability and accuracy you deserve. That's why I decided to do my Super Action Job exclusively. This type of action work goes far beyond even the best factory fitting; items that are "extras" for other gunsmiths are "standard" with my Super Action Job. The difference is truly phenomenal! I start by carefully examining your gun. I measure and record every operational aspect, and compare these measurements against factory limits. In some cases, I have more stringent specifications than the factory, as I’ve found that they are critical to the gun’s performance. (If the headspacing or cylinder endshake is out of spec, they will need to be corrected before any action work is performed.)
On disassembly, all parts are inspected and ultrasonically cleaned. The frame is checked for smoothness where operating parts contact; if at all rough, the areas are smoothed.
My Super Action job starts by smoothing contact surfaces to reduce the “grittiness” and smooth the trigger travel. The trigger is adjusted for identical let-off points in both single and double action, and the let-off itself is made to be more predictable, with less “jarring”, than the stock action. The cylinder’s bearing surfaces are polished to remove even slight amounts of friction, which requires less trigger force to operate. After the surfaces are polished, a new spring set is installed. All of the internal springs are tensioned and balanced for the client's preferences of pull weight, ignition reliability, and sure trigger reset. On the K, L, and N frames the mainspring is replaced with the superb (and costly) Wolff "PowerRib" design; I've found that it is the most consistent and durable of all the springs on the market.
On guns where the single action is retained, the single-action sear is adjusted and polished; even the surfaces that contact when the gun is cocked for single action are finished, so that the act of pulling back the hammer is smooth and slick. The single action is adjusted for a smooth, no-creep letoff that is crisp, yet without abruptness. As any serious revolver shooter knows, the trigger pull is only half of the equation; the other half is the trigger return. I pay special attention to all of the things that affect the trigger return - smoothing it to the same degree as the pull. Not only will the trigger reset more smoothly, it will do so faster. It must be felt to be appreciated!
Believe it or not, this description doesn’t begin to cover all of the work involved. There is much more, all aimed at one goal: giving your Smith the best action that it can possibly have!
Other Popular S&W Work Double-Action Only Conversion Package: Highly recommended for any carry or duty gun, the DAO Conversion Package eliminates the single-action cocking notch. The trigger face is polished smooth to remove the sharp edges and the serrations, and the hammer spur is removed (“bobbed”) so that the hammer cannot be pulled back. I bob the hammer in a shape that both complements the lines of the gun and retains necessary hammer mass for reliable ignition. It does not look like your typical “bob the hammer with a hacksaw” job! The back of the hammer is then blued (finished to semi-matte on stainless guns) to reduce glare and distraction when you’re pulling the trigger.
Cylinder Chamfering: To make reloading easier and faster, the edges of the cylinder mouths are chamfered. Where necessary, the chambers are polished. Highly recommended for carry and duty guns!
Trigger Smoothing: The trigger face is polished smooth to remove the sharp edges, and radiused so that it feels superb to your trigger finger. In addition, the sharp corners on the back side of the trigger are chamfered for complete shooting comfort. (If desired, the width of the trigger can be reduced.) Muzzle Crowning: If there is any fault of modern revolvers, it is that the muzzles are often poorly crowned or sometimes not crowned at all. I’ve found that a good crown not only protects the all-important rifling, many times it improves the accuracy as well. I cut a deep 45-degree crown, and then polish it to a literal mirror finish - elegant enough to match the rest of your fine machine. The effect is visually stunning. “Dehorning”: There are many sharp edges on revolvers that can make handling, especially reloading, painful - particularly when you are moving "at speed." Dehorning gently smooths those edges so that your hands (and clothes and holsters) won’t wear as readily. This is NOT a “meltdown” - the edges are smooth, but the appearance of the gun is not dramatically altered. I like to say that this is a modification that you FEEL, but don’t SEE! (This requires that the gun be refinished, unless you like a very “well worn” look.) (Not available on alloy frame guns.)