The crane worked its way out of the frame, taking the cylinder with
it. (You can hear the distinctive ring of the crane hitting the
ground at 1:04.)
The submitter of the video - who is also the shooter - calls it a
"defect", but is careful not to identify just what the defect might
be.He then goes over to ar15.com, where he
poststhe cause as "shitty metal"
and says that some gunsmith claims to have seen several with
identical failures. (I should note that I have yet to see even one
such failure.) He also says that the crane retention screw was
still in the gun.
Some background: the crane, which is the piece on which the
cylinder rotates, is held in place with a screw. (Those of you with
S&W revolvers can look at the right side of the gun, and the
screw that sits just above the forward attachment point of the
trigger guard is the crane retention screw.) On newer guns it
contains a spring-loaded plunger which holds the crane, on older
models it was simply a slightly longer screw.
Since he claims this to be a "newer" gun, it's no doubt of the
spring-plunger variety. (As an aside, note that the other
participants in the thread seemed surprised by this, to their
minds, "recent" change. Apparently none of them are aware that the
spring plunger was adopted clear back in 1986, no doubt before some
of them had even been born!)
Back to the topic at hand...if that screw works sufficiently loose,
it will give the crane enough clearance to slide out, but the screw
will remain in the frame. On quick glance, is may even appear to be
properly installed. If the screw is out just the right amount, the
crane will be just barely retained, but will separate with a little
forward pressure - during a speed reload, for instance. Under those
conditions the tip of the plunger and the mating surface on the
crane can both be slightly damaged, leading the inexperienced to
conclude that they were defective in some manner.
So, faulty gun - or something else?
In the forum post, the shooter tells us he changed the mainspring,
but insists he didn't remove the sideplate. Now understand that I
do that task on a very regular basis, and even I remove the
sideplate to chainge the mainspring - it's a serious hassle to do
otherwise, especially with the new (post-lock) guns. Once finished,
it' easy to replace the sideplate but neglect to fully tighten the
screw. (It's even easier to forget to check that screw every so
often, even if one hasn't messed with it!)
Remember that I don't have the gun in hand to inspect, and I'm
willing to give the fellow the benefit of the doubt, but I have not
heard of, nor seen, any crane retention failures caused by "shitty
metal." I have, however, seen lots of them from failure to tighten
the retention screw.
If you remove screws from your revolver, be sure you do two things:
first, make sure you put them back in their proper holes (they are
different), and make sure they're very tight. A dab of low-yield
LocTite ('purple', type 222) will ensure that they stay in place
but won't hinder their removal.
Even if you don't remove them, it's a good idea to check them
occasionally. It's part of normal revolver maintenance and the
responsibility of the informed user.
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Alliance! The blog about revolvers,
training, self-defense, and shooting in general (along with an
occasional surprise!)